5 Quintessential British Cheeses (Besides Cheddar)

Knowing your cheese is as important as knowing your wine. And when it comes to the varied landscape of artisanal British cheese, there is so much more to know (and love) than cheddar.

We asked John, our Head of Cook School, for five favourites, available at specialty cheesemongers like our Borough Market (and Islington Square) neighbours Neal’s Yard Dairy. Think of these five cheeses as a great group to place on a large chopping board – or dedicated cheese board – when entertaining. 

1. Lancashire Bomber

'Think of Lancashire Bomber as a sort of elevated cheddar. Set in wax, it contains crystallised salt which bursts in the mouth, contrasting beautifully with the tart, punchy umami of the aged paste. This is a truly dynamic cheese.'

2. Baron Bigod

'A soft cheese with a cult following, Baron Bigod is widely loved by chefs across the country. This Suffolk-made, Brie-style cheese moves seamlessly from an earthy mushroom funk near the rind to a velvety, creamy richness at the centre, and finishes on a subtle note of citrus.'

3. Stichelton

'This is a blue cheese, but not as you know it. Made with unpasteurised milk, Stichelton puts acidity front and centre, featuring a fresh, vibrant zing that cuts through its deep creaminess. You may find it difficult to go back to traditional French blues after experiencing this British powerhouse of flavour.'

4. Dorstone

'Brought to temperature, this ash-coated Herefordshire cheese is entirely about subtlety and texture. It is infinitely creamy, combined with a gentle, clean sourness typical of high-quality goat's cheese. Refreshing yet bold enough to stand toe-to-toe with more impactful cheeses, it easily earns its place on any thoughtful cheese board.' (See: John’s Beetroot and Endive Tarte Tatin recipe, which is topped with Dorstone cheese.)

5. Ogleshield

'This is the OG British melting cheese, accept no other imitation! It features a great texture with a small, pleasant springiness when uncooked, but reveals loads of nuance from both the rind and flesh when heated. Because of its approachable character, it is a brilliant cheese to serve to (rare) guests who claim they don’t like cheese.'

John’s Expert Cheese Tasting Tips

Follow these tips to get the absolute best out of these cheeses (and sound like you really know your stuff at a dinner party).

  • Always Taste the Rind: 'Unless the rind is made of plastic, leaf, or cloth wax, you should always eat it. The rind offers vital nuance and balance, giving you an essential point of contrast to compare against the main body of the cheese.'

  • Understand Ripening vs. Tempering: 'Ripening is a slow process of maturing a cheese in specific humidity and temperature conditions to help it reach its peak flavour. Dedicated independent cheesemongers do this for you, which is why a monger's cheese is consistently superior to mass-market supermarket options. Tempering, on the other hand, is the simple step of leaving your cheese out at room temperature before serving. This coaxes out the more subtle flavours and relaxes the fats. Just be careful not to leave them out for too long or in too warm a space, as soft cheeses will collapse and hard cheeses will begin to leech their fats.'

  • Look for Lingering Umami: 'High-quality cheese is naturally umami-rich, and the best varieties have enough depth of flavour to last a good conversation. Much like a fine red wine, you should still be able to taste the lingering umami of a cheese after stating your case in a jovial debate around the table.'

  • Accompaniments: 'Cheese deserves more than just crackers! Crackers are the monotone by which to compare your cheese, but accompaniments should also add contrast – not just in flavour, but texture. Think fresh fruit like grapes that burst with moisture, or a walnut that gives more bite. They should also help to cleanse the palate from the umami and sourness of cheeses, this is why sweeter things work so well. They tone down the acidity of the cheese. Try the cheese with and without accompaniments, and see how the flavour changes.'

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